From the interview over on Techin5:
Daniel Cheong is a photographer who hails from Mauritius, but has decided to set up shop (figuratively of course) in Dubai, UAE. His amazing shots really caught my eyes on Facebook, and I soon followed him on Flickr where I saw the full range of photographs and blends he had up on the site – and each one seemed to outdo the other. What really piqued our interest though, was when Daniel started posting pictures from Nokia’s latest mobile device – the Lumia 1020, which as you know is of course a 41 megapixel shooter on the back of a phone. It was then we decided to approach Daniel and ask him about some of his pictures, how he creates those amazing shots he takes, and why a professional photographer uses a Lumia 1020 to take photographs from time to time. If you follow me on Twitter personally, you’ll know I’ve shared many of Daniel’s pictures already, and like myself, many people are very impressed with his work.
...What tools (cameras) do you currently use, and why did you choose it/them?
My main camera is the Nikon D800 (36 MegaPixels) with a set of Nikkor lenses. What I Iike with Nikon is the great auto bracketing capability of the camera which is required for the type of photography I produce (using multiple exposures). And recently I am using the Lumia 1020, it is my primary mobile phone.
Personally, I’m very interested in your process from shooting to the final product. Run us through this process a little. Is it possible to get that perfect shot without any post process editing?
There is a limitation today in any camera sensor, which is called ‘Dynamic Range’. A camera sensor cannot capture a scene with the same dynamic range as the human eye. In many cases, the picture that you took with your camera will never look the same as what your eyes saw. For instance, your eyes would have seen all the details in the shadows and highlights, the camera will show you overexposed and underexposed areas. The technique which I used (called ‘Digital Blending’) is an artificial way of increasing the dynamic range of a scene, while keeping its natural look, close to what the human eye saw. In my opinion, I cannot get the perfect shot without post process editing, but this is just me
Speaking of post processing, what is your go to post-process editing software? What do you feel is the best software for beginners to use?
My post-process editing software is Photoshop CS6. For beginners, I would advise to use a more simple version such as Photoshop Elements, or Lightroom.
So, if I understand this right, Digital Blending is like HDR and using the same principles but using extra processing back on the desktop to restore as much of a natural look as possible. Here's one of Daniel's examples, shot on the Lumia 1020 using just two bracketed exposures (auto-created in Nokia Camera) and using extra contrast and vibrance filters in Photoshop:
The interview continues:
Well first of all, there is a 41 Mpix sensor, which allows to capture an incredible amount of details, and which also allow to do cropping without any loss of quality. And one of the most interesting feature for professional photographers is the complete manual control of the camera (except the aperture which is fixed to f/2.2). You can change the White Balance, the focus, the ISO, the exposure compensation, and you can even do auto EV bracketing (up to 5 brackets, by steps of 1, 2 or 3 EV)
Here's another of Daniel's supreme HDR examples, this time with five bracketed exposures from the Lumia 1020, plus extra Photoshop filters on the desktop:
I treat the 1020 the same way as I treat my professional DSLR. As any pro photographers, I am obsessed with noise, therefore the first thing I do is set up the ISO to 100 to get minimal noise. Then to avoid camera shake, I activate the ‘Shutter Delay’, so that when I press the camera button (or tap on the screen), there will be about 3s delay before the camera takes the shot. After I take the photo, if I am not happy with the color temperature, I will manually change the White Balance, and if the exposure is not correct, I will use the Exposure Compensation to correct it (for instance, if the photo is too dark, then I will increase the Exposure Compension – you can actually see in real time the effect of the settings). And every time I take a photo, I zoom in at 100% to check the sharpness of the photo. If the shot is blurred, it could be that the camera could not autofocus properly (in that case you might need to focus manually), or there could still be camera shake.
A great tip on 'shutter delay' - this is most often used by amateurs to do 'selfies', i.e. set it and then run around the front, but it's also useful here to ensure that the mechanical shutter fires when your hand isn't touching the device.
In addition, it's evident that for this sort of work a tripod is essential, so that the framing is identical from bracketed shot to shot - the Lumia 1020 Grip is perhaps the best option here.
You can read the whole article here, along with some more 'digitally blended' examples.